In Kashmir, silver, engraved and repousse was the metal of choice for female ornaments which traditionally included amulet holders, necklaces of various shapes, bangles, rings and ear-rings which interestingly were not worn in the ears but hang from silver chains which each earring on either side, handling loosely from the ear. The other common ornament, that one might still see on an elderly Kashmiri lady, were medallions that were pinned on a cap, that formed part of the head dress of a Kashmiri women. The head-dress and the silver ornaments bear very close resemblance to the traditional ornamentation of Central Asian and Afghan women. One that was rather unique to Kashmir was the 'Kann-e Waji", which literally translates as "Ear Rings". These were a set of hoops, tied together and hanging on either side of a chain or thread, they went over the lady's head, under their head-dress. The reason for the popularity of silver and not gold, for ornaments was simply affordability. IN fact, some of the poorer families, especially in the villages, wore ornaments made of a cheaper white metal, that resembles, silver
In the early part of the 19th century there was a slow but steady increase in tourists, most of whom where families and friends of the British government officials, who were trying to escape the heat of the Indian Plains in the summer. It is not hard to imagine that having witnessed the skill of the Kashmiri silversmiths, they had them carve decorative utilitarian objects in silver, which was quite popular in their home countries. This lead to a fascinating amalgamation of the western and traditional Kashmiri design aesthetic resulting in things like an Edwardian tea set with a Kashmiri shawl pattern and tea set in the shape of a Kashmiri "Samawar" (tea tettle) or a Kashmiri "Kaangear", (a hand-held fire pot), Of course, there were beautifully engraved decorative pieces like vases and bowls as well as articles of toilette such as mirrors, powder-boxes and the like.
Although engraved silver was very popular in other parts of India but here again, the Kashmiri craftsmen, established their own distinct aesthetic in carved silver. Adhering to their religious belief that prohibited carving human or animal images, the Kashmiri silversmiths adorned their wares with intricately carved and repousse flora of their native land and of course the unmistakable shawl pattern. Another detail, unique to Kashmir sliver is the use of snakes for handles and occasionally as decorative elements.
As with other Kashmiri art forms, there is scant research material available to date my silver collection.. But based on the information available from travelogues and some research that has been done on the topic, most of my collection dates from the latter part of the 19th century and into the very early part of the 20th century.
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